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The designer Maryam Nassirzadeh noticed several of her fellow New Yorkers dressing this way, including herself; she often shares images of herself in sheer clothes over bikini bottoms or no bra with her highly engaged Instagram followers. The attitude inspired her own runway show, which showcased her treasured collection of textile scraps pieced together over models’ otherwise nude bodies. Some of the textiles were barely big enough to cover a single breast, and she thought of them like gems or shells. “Is this enough?” she recalls thinking. “But then I thought, there’s something sensual and ethereal and meaningful in the sense of, like, [each textile] has an essence and an aura.”

The next day, Tory Burch’s models were more covered up but no less exposed. Her opening look was a sheer white elbow-length shirt revealing a gray bra beneath and a ruched darker gray miniskirt, squeezed over a sheer black skirt. Much of the collection was similarly layered, with abs, cleavage, and shoulders revealed by fabric that had been wrapped or gathered or in conservative cuts made sensual with see-through cloth.

By the end of Fashion Month, sexy, sensual clothes had emerged as designers’ big message, including at Simone Rocha in London and Hermès in Paris. It wasn’t a revolt against men’s diktats about how women should dress, nor merely a comeback of sultry stuff after a decade of oversize silhouettes. With female designers leading this change, it marks one of the most declarative shifts in clothing since before the pandemic. It’s a reframing of what’s appealing and to whom, as well as a radical shift in the way we think about our own bodies and relate to one another’s.

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