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Tristram Hunt, the director of the V&A, praised Chanel for having “paved the way for a new feminine elegance, drafting a framework for fashion that continues to influence how women dress today”.

The show will span the seven decades of Chanel’s career. The oldest exhibit will be a sailor-collar blouse in oatmeal raw silk jersey from 1916, avant garde in its radical simplicity; the newest, a pale pink lamé dress from her final collection. Alison Adburgham, the Guardian’s fashion editor at the time, said of the designer’s 1971 swan song: “The look of Chanel, casual but elegant, could be the answer to the modern woman’s dilemma.”

The exhibition will spotlight how the designer’s love of Britain and British countryside pursuits played a key role in the origin story of the Chanel tweed suit. Over the course of a lengthy affair with the Duke of Westminster, the designer also fell in love with the Scottish tweeds that she borrowed from his wardrobe for country walks and fishing excursions. On returning to her atelier in Paris, she fused British tweed with French elegance to dream up her classic boxy skirt suits, a look Vogue described in 1964 as “the world’s prettiest uniform”.

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